Greenock Creek - Cabernet Sauvignon

1. Philip White

   30 jul. 2021

   96+/100

   Philip White

   Tasted 14-18th June 2013
   I reckon this will become one of the very best Barossa Cabernets of my lifetime. It�s not as intense as, say, the best of the Penfolds Block 42 Kalimna, but then it�s a different style completely. It�s an elegant, but utterly focused wine of surprising force and potential. It has classic Cabernet leafiness in its fragrance � and a fragrance it most certainly is � but none of the overt methoxypyrazine greenness Australians seem to expect of Cabernet below 15% alcohol, which is stone dumb, but you can�t really blame them. That�s what�s been thrust at them since the refineries and the ridiculous trellises went up. Here the leaf is somewhere between dry black Russian Caravan tea and the nightshades, with a touch of extinguished Cohiba cigar and grilled turnip greens. The odd juniper berry pokes its head up. The fruits are never overt or obvious, but they�re there in a sort of el elegantly slender syrup, and they bring blackcurrant and baby beetroot to mind. There�s a line of 6B St�dtler pencil carbon straight up the middle. And now, after four days with my nose in it, I know this is the sort of Cabernet most winemakers would love to make, if only they could. I know it�s most certainly the sort of Cabernet I want to drink. So, I tip some in. To me. The lissome finesse of this wine is really something to behold. It has a brightness of attitude and a spriteliness of form that makes me want to take all my clothes off and run around like a little kid; like David Helfgott does when he�s pleased with things. (He�s the character played by Geoffrey Rush, who won an Oscar for it in Shine.) One glass would probably get me all the way down to the shops and back before the cops got me. And if they came knocking at my door I�d give them a glass and they�d probably nude up and do the same damn thing. Under that beautiful preserving screw cap, I�d give it twenty or thirty years, which would give me a very good reason to try a bit harder to stay alive. A new hi gh point in the Barossa�s gastronomic intelligence. Greenock C reek does Bordeaux? You betcha! Stunning. 96+++ points

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